Caymus Emperor is naked first nekkid with all its hangin ' junk ...

22 Sep 2010

, First, it wasn't the fault of Fleming.  Really. They tried so hard.  The service was amazing. From the managing partners James, down to every waiter (who introduced themselves all the way!) they perform all each guest feel welcome and important one, perfect attended to.Nixon, Chef and food executed per plate is empty I sent back! bravo to you all.

They even struggled with the technology to try to make the "Interactive dinner with Caymus" be something interactive.  However, even the best laid plans, executed even as much as possible, simply do not always work. 

  Let's face it. Even the most well behaved adults get really strong, until after a few glasses of wine or four.  Dead center loud table one giant has done all the hope of hearing, much less interaction with Chuck Wagner wine Director of Fleming (and my favorite person) op Jansen Marian de Haar, on the screen to disappear. You can write a question Chuck ["??????"????? ????"?? Caymus if possible in a few words, how do you describe it?" seriously, I really wanted to know because I don't think anyone actually becomes wine in the same style for any other reason than marketing] I could never even hear if they received my question, much less what the answer was.  James told me that there was a woman as a delegate of Caymus, she was going to come and say hello, probably answer my questions.She never did when he tried to introduce myself ... at the end of the evening, she was so engrossed in conversation with her spouse of a table for dinner, I try to attract attention. So much for any interaction with Caymus.  Why am I not surprised?

What leads me to the most disappointing aspect of the evening.The wines of hate mail offensive. before, I simply say that Chuck Wagner is a genius at something one marketing. He called the Stanford University study clearly proved that you say that to someone more expensive wine, they automatically see it to be better quality.  Unfortunately, change & humble Svt mst Obdt here, this genius missing is clearly the bottle. 

Viz: 

Conundrum 2008. Ick. Sweet, cloying with acids out of balance. Strange copper finish, just a mess inside the glass. Even my two women at the table with me not care.  Each bottle 20 market? WTF?

  Mr. Silver Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 Soleil: Ick but no icky like Conundrum. Although very green, like a bunch of leaves got crushed with fruit.  Speak clearly of Malolactic buttery.More is the same as the palate. Perry green, rose in response to acid, more green and character that was at odds with ?????? the acid, and no balance. All 20 retail bottle, twice that in the restuarant? feh.

A special selection Cabernet 2000: Oaky nose.Zero fruit. Oak tannins on the palate, more acid with no fruit at all. ten years old and over the Hill or at the fool that he almost brain dead phase. market 125 $ $ 250 or more on the wine list. Aint no right … that way.

  2008 Special Selection Cabernet: giant fruit bomb. Many fruits on the nose, ripe fruit ?????? over the palate and of dense oak tannins, salt.The palate was crowded and muddy, above the mystery of the fruit became bolder with air and retail $ 100., 250 on the list.There is no way … Hell no.

At this point, I'm certain 2000 and 2008 blended together to get something a lot better … but yet, I should also do this?

Then bring out the "gift" of James of part of the 2005 special selection.Pelvis on the nose and tones the palate.The fruit is dark, slightly tannic.This one showed more Bordeaux-style, with tones of cherry fruit and thinner.Good wine, the best of the night, a friendly market 150 $, 300 on a list.Hell give me a break. …

Come on people wake up and trust your own palates.. try this: do blind tasting with Caymus, something similar but half price from Napa.

I suppose I should be "that guy" who says "the emperor has no clothes." hell, "is the first completely naked nekkid with hanging outside his junk.

I really like wines.. you tried anyone admires Caymus, I'm not sorry. I just I must be honest, fair, they are not equal. the price of admission to the market environment, I chose not to me when I see all Bordeaux less money can buy. "hell, I Bages Lynch 2005 June is only $ 75 so much better, much more age.

But to Fleming for trying, as well as for beautiful evening as it was, notwithstanding wines … my Bravo and thank you all.

Life
Most Moshein
Wine Austin guy

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AWG antique day 5

Translate Request has too much data Parameter name: request Translate Request has too much data Parameter name: request August 23, 2010

Sorry for the delay in this last episode of Bordeaux. Found the notes I'd been writing from earlier and just now finished.

Thursday.

Awoke to the sounds of roosters crowing. Seriously. They really do that! I can not ever recall hearing them in the morning in my life! Cool. Looking out the window for my first glimpse of the Pomys grounds.

It was pitch black when we arrived the night before. 9am departure on the schedule, so I hustle to shower, pack up and head down by 830 so I can grab a bite of French breakfast.  I confess I've become addicted. I never eat much in the morning at home, usually just a lot of coffee. Maybe a half bagel with cream cheese.  Today, I scarf down Croissant with fresh butter and jam, wonderful toast (croutons) with amazing Fromage blanc, and dark rich espresso coffee. As we approach 9, only April shows up to join me. The pattern will be obvious.  Only April and I turned in at something close to a reasonable hour.  We never could find the rest, who "might" have been up the tower.  Intrepid Charlie shows up with the bus spot on time at 9 despite the hour plus drive from Bordeaux.  His British stiff upper lip never wavers, nor does his wonderful sense of humour.  (Yes spell check, I mean to spell it that way….)

Ward, disheveled and blurry looking makes his way down. The tale of the night before spills out. Suffice it to say, it involved copious amounts of wine consumed. Everyone's room, except mine, searched for wine bottles, excursions into the darkness, jumping spiders resulting in Megan's darkness piercing shrieks, and Mutineeer Alan getting stuck in a tree and throwing rocks at the only lighted room in the place trying to get their attention.  Turns out that room was the one next to mine, Alan's own room where he had left the lights on!  Some other tale from Ward about him dancing around naked in his room listening to his iPod and a mysterious stranger wearing only a towel looking in the window from the balcony which ran the length of the hotel rooms outside.  I felt like the one chaperone at a college dorm party…Ah well,  yr mst humble & Obdt Svt here doesn't heal from an all night drunk as well as the twenty somethings do.  I was happy to be alert and having breakfast. I felt a little like the one guy not picked for the team, but once the others straggled in looking like hell run over by a truck, that feeling disappeared. Charlie becoming cross and seeming perturbed for the first time all week when 9:30am rolled around and 2 of us (who shall remain nameless but aren't Wine Buffs) were still not down. I had to run up and knock on their doors.

Now, the reason for Charlie's perturbation was because we were supposed to BE at the first stop by 9:30, and our schedule had only allowed us thirty minutes to get there, yet the actual drive time was 45 minutes or more. So, we start our day WAYYYYYY behind schedule. More details of the escapades of the night before roll out during the drive.  Finally, we end up at a tiny winery in Cadaujac, in Pessac--Leognan, Graves.  Chateau Baulos-Charmes. A handsome late twenty early thirty blond guy greets us as we arrive 90 minutes late.

Sean Mathys-Meynard is proprietor and vigneron. The property is only 8 acres. He is devoted to organic and sustainable agriculture. His passion is to work the vines daily all year, so that he does not have to work in the winery after harvest. I instantly like this guy. He is this wine guy's wine maker. A 180 in attitude and passion from yesterday. Sean has worked the vines alone for three years, only recently hiring an apprentice. He quite literally could be placed blindfolded anywhere on the property and only by looking at his feet tell you within five meters where he is.  He can blind taste wine from any one of the 155 barrels in his chais and identify the exact barrel.  We spend a lot of time in the vineyard, listening to him talk about the vines and soils.

The more I listen to him, the more I like him. He is so much the "new" Bordeaux personified. You just want him to succeed. The wines are good. 64% Merlot, 35% Cabernet, and literally one row of Cab Franc.  Solid, dark cherry tones, nice earth and clean acidity for the Grand Vin. The tannins are very elegant and integrated. Most pleasant to drink. Tiny amounts made, of course. These are Merlot based wines that I LIKE!  Nice to drink now, but easily cellars for ten years. Sadly they don't make it over here. More epic pics from Mutineer Ian in the vineyard, and we are on our way again. We leave there at 12:45 to arrive just short of two hours late at our next stop.

Chateaus Lusseau. I fall in love with the place the moment we pull in behind the wonderful old pile of a chateau. It just reeks of family and honest lack of pretense. Berangere Guyellien and "Maman" greet us. Maman clearly not pleased we are late. Berangere is smiles and gracious. We take a quick walk around the vineyards. The Semillon section are 75 year old vines.  The rest are 35-50!  Wow.  We have to drag Rebecca out of the rocky dirt and into the cellar to taste.  Berangere has laid out not just her wines, but a selection of ten or so wines of her neighbors as well, so that me might get a feel for Graves as a whole.  The down to earth, meatiness, gravel, clean, pure flavors resonate.  An amazing hors d'oeuvres spread delights as well. Maman in and out while we taste, still annoyed at how late lunch will be. We hurry through the Graves, and head into the Chateau itself for lunch. 

Chateau. The word conjures up huge imposing palaces of stone, Baronial halls, walk in fire places, bedecked with ancient tapestry.  We had seen some of those.  This Chateau however, is a home. Cozy, warm, a little frayed here and there, cat dashing across the hall.  All very inviting and real. We fill the dining room.

The table has been laid with old family silver, old family china, old family crystal, and a mountain of fresh roses and flowers from the jardin.   I end up seated between Berangere and Maman.

I fall in love with the both by the end of the first course of smoked salmon, and their wonderful steely Graves Blanc.  Maman was a doctor, as was her husband, and they also ran the winery between tending to the health of the locals.  Berangere was an attorney, who left the heady world of corporate life to return back home, and be the next generation to run the place.  The rare Maigret of duck as the main course was "off the hook" goodness! I had thirds.  Lunch was served family style.  Everything about this place was family style.  I love love loved it all. I had a great chat with Berangere and Maman.  I could have moved in. 

Sadly, we had to press on, and poor Charlie was looking as haggard and stressed as I had ever seen. Clearly, we were way behind. Now the really bad news. We have to cancel Ch. Carbonnieux.  Ouch that hurts.  Losing our second of only two Grand Cru wineries.  Well, the lunch was worth it to me.

A quick stop at Haut Nouchet, a newer winery in Martillac, run by a young winemaker.  A lesser red and the Grand Vin. They were fine, nice. I wasn't excited by them or the place.  I kept thinking "we missed Carbonnieux for this??"  I must be gracious.  They were trying very hard.  I spent most of the time wandering the beautiful gardens and watched Megan run across a huge field of wild flowers, like a little kid.  That was cool….

Back to CIVB for a "Master Class" in Sweet Bordeaux.  I can now say I know everything there is to know about Sweet Bordeaux.  I know I like it, in small doses before dinner, with Foie, or as dessert….

Then on to a really cool wine bar, to watch France get trounced by Mexico in the World Cup.  I was far more intrigued by the wine pouring machines.  You buy a debit card from the bartender, then wander around the machines with bottles under argon gas, that dispense 2oz, 4 oz or 6oz pours (ok they were metric pours, but I can't remember the metric amounts, ok??) and show you what each size pour of each wine will deduct from your card. Pretty cool huh? I loved that one could try '03 Lynch Bages for only 4 euro a small pour.

Now, we really ended up missing dinner.  There were only app plates at theWine Bar.  I was starved. I begged the others to stop and eat.  They decided not to eat, but instead head to a bar.  Well, I wasn't in the mood to eat alone, so I just went along with the program. It was a lot of fun actually.  I'll spare the details, but let's just say my part involved three half liters of Leffe Blonde, some shot of something at a bar and two vodkas before stumbling back to the hotel around 3am…

I love Bordeaux.

Last Day.   Quick up and back to Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux. Then lunch and some video taping at the CIVB and more pictures from Mutineer Ian. Got to see an amazing sight.  Hanging out at the Bar a Vin at the CIVB in the afternoon, who starts swarming the place but the Commanderie des Seigneurs de Bordeaux!

Yes the Renaissance garbed elders from all of the regions of Bordeaux! Off the hook. Evening at a truly amazing wonderful wine bar "Bo Bar" with Freddie from CIVB.  She's great. Great off the wall wines, in a teeny tiny place on a storybook square.

Then, finally, a fabulous seafood dinner on the Quai. Plateau de fruit de Mer! yumm.

Thank you CIVB. Thank you P'tite Fred. Thank you Barbara, and CF peeps.  Thank you Buffs and Mutineers.  I will not forget any of this week, nor any of you.

Yr. Mst Hmbl & Obdt Svt,

Rob Moshein
Austin Wine Guy

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Celebrate all things Cab today! Day # Cabernet of world

02 September 2010

Today is a celebration of all things Cabernet.Simply open a bottle of Cab, taste, and then post it to Twitter or Facebook with the hashtag # Cabernet. simple.

I don't run out of wine in the East End, 8 pm this evening to 6 pm, pouring two Bordeaux wines from the Cab is based can be positioned Medoc o. review and then go back and fill in later.

Until then, happy, # Cabernet

Awg

Medoc Greysac chateaux 2006: tight end first, a little too much acid, light nose. an hour later, he has developed a cherry tone and dried pleasant basin.

Medoc Vieux Chateau Landon 2006: beautiful, classic Bordeaux blends dark Cherry, Cedar box acidity is balanced with good layer consists of Nice, of flavors that I never got the best food with heavy., but most of the wines are then BDX ...

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AWG antique day 3

Translate Request has too much data Parameter name: request Translate Request has too much data Parameter name: request June 22, 2010

Bordeaux +3  Tuesday.

Yr Mst Hmbl & Obdt Svt here off to a quick morning class at the Ecole du Vin, the Wine School at the CIVB in BDX. Good general overview and refresher course plus answers to some more technical questions. A lovely lunch at a Michelin Star restaurant in town, which shall remain nameless for reasons soon to be disclosed, but was mentioned in the NY Times.... April, one of my fellow Wine Buffs ordered a plain green salad. She was next to me on my right, and I hear her gasp, I turn to notice a smallish tan SPIDER covered in oil crawl his way out of the greens to the top of the bowl. Poor April just freaked out, the waitress whisked away the salad with barely a word. As April hyperventilated (she clearly hates spiders), they brought her another salad.  One of the other Buffs actually transferred the new salad from one bowl to another to ensure no more wildlife presence.  What did this "Michelin Star" joint do? Rien. Nada. Not even an apology. When April's wine glass was empty, our intrepid chaperone cum guide cum new friend Charlie "suggested" to the wait staff that the least they could do was give her a second glass on the house.  They obliged, but, well so much for Michelin Star "service". I was, in a word, underwhelmed.

Off to Entre Deux Mers.  Cloudy day, Sunny spirits all around. First up, Lugaingnac for Chateau Haut Guillebots. At the top of a hill, sits a lovely old Chateau, late 18th century, right up against the road. A lovely lady comes out to greet us all, a charming little girl with blonde curls clinging to maman's knee. Marie-Christine Labouille is the Seventh, yes, seventh generation of women to run the property and make the wine. Unheard of in Bordeaux, yet the line descends unbroken from mother to daughter, for seven generations and two hundred years; and someday perhaps her little blonde charmer will become Proprietere someday, though today her five year old mind is set on being a vet.  We go to the vineyard, to see the vines. Trellised high to leave exposure between ouvriers, we wandered amongst the Sauvignon vines. Mostly Blanc, a few Gris, and Marie Christine Labouille explained her thoughts on winemaking. An already familiar story; much work done in the vineyard all year long so that little work is required inside the winery after harvest. A quick tour of tanks and barrels in the chais, and tasting. No doubt the feminine character of the Vigneron is clear in the wines as well. Much like Marie Christine, the wines were feminine and pretty, solid and sturdy, elegant and supple. I rather liked them. I rather like her also. After a while, she relaxed and we began to talk about the Chateau and her family. She herself did not want to run the winery, setting off to find a career elsewhere and in her words "returned by a stroke of fate/fortune" to Haut Guillebots where, as she put it "the vines are alive, the terroir is alive, the vineyard is alive and it all becomes your life as well. All things are intertwined."  She can no longer conceive of doing anything else and remains devoted to the wine. Family is clearly part of the Bordeaux tradition, and with many generations living in the same place, working the same vineyards and living in the same Chateau, it is obvious how deep this runs.

We depart with a sense of reluctance. How warm and moving it was to listen to Marie Christine's stories of her family on the property; the German occupation, with Germans billeted in the house. Grandmere cursing them to their faces and putting them in their place on a regular basis. The rest of the family living in fear of reprisal, yet, fortune smiled and they were left in peace. Grandpere crossing the Nazi checkpoints on bicycle with thousands of francs of currency hidden in the handlebars of his bike, right under the German noses. One is left speechless by the stories. Your heart is touched by watching the little blonde girl dash in and out, with wildflowers from the fields, plopping down onto Maman's lap leaving chalky dust on Marie's black skirt. Papa pops in and Marie leaves us for a moment or two to talk with him. The aura of "en famille" is strong here. You can see this in the wines as well. The whites were particularly good, sturdy, solid, pretty and with depth. Which is only proper.

We leave for Pujols and Chateau Marac.  Arriving early evening, to a charming, more modern place, old stock which has been renovated more recently. A charming younger woman and equally charming older man come to greet us in the courtyard. Bonville Pere et Fille, father and daughter who run the place. M. Alain Bonville came from Champagne to buy and run his own place, both daughters becoming vignerons in their own right, one, Melanie, staying on at Marac.  Again, Agathe, a charming little blonde moppet of a kid at first being shy and clinging to maman or grandpere Alain. I showed her pictures of my dogs on my iPhone and she warmed up instantly and was soon running around the place, climbing and clamoring all over the boxes of wine and bringing out favored toys to show the guests. We have an Entre Deux Mers Blanc that is, well, amazing. Alan, the Mutineer, who said fews things on Monday, and even fewer in complete sentences, simply transformed on tasting,  becoming expressive, eager, ecstatic and exuberant; dancing around the chais, glass in hand that "this s--- ROCKS!"   Honestly, it does. I have never tasted a Sauvignon-Semillon quite like it. Jasmine tea, sweet white flowers, crisp minerally acidity, yet a nice beeswax taste and texture. The other wines were also quite good, but honestly the white was a home run all bases loaded. Oh, yeah, maybe $15 on the shelf in the US, if you could find it, which our great dismay, you can't. DAMMIT! I fought back a tear as kind M. Bonville offered me a bottle to take home, my having to refuse as there was no way to pack it for the flight. SIGH........I suddenly realize that a formal tasting has transformed into a raucous cocktail party. Everbody chatting, laughing, loving the wines and making new friends with the Bonville family.

Dinner just a few hundred meters down the road in Pujols proper at the Bonville's favorite local, Chez Sylvie. We stop at dusk to admire the view across Entre Deux Mers across to Cotes du Castillon. The sky a violet blue in a surreal intensity, the fading sunlight bouncing off the ancient stone walls of the village below and dancing across the water of a small lake in the distance. Chez Sylvie for dinner. Mutineer Alan shows his enthusiasm for the Ch. Marac Blanc!
The restaurant was a homey, charming place, which was opened just for us (! Holy crap ! ) The three Bonvilles welcoming us to dinner like long lost family, all at a long table in one room, magnums of two vintages of the red and more of the White (woo hoo) and the lovely rose.  The meal was again a family affair of traditional Bordeaux fare. Salad Gibiers, Salad of greens topped with braised chicken giblets, not nearly a weird as it sounds, the meat being a tender, moist texture and the flavors pure clean farm chicken, with a fat slice of foie gras on the side. Dr. Roger, my internist, mea maxima culpa, I'm sorry, I couldn't help myself, but I ate yet more fois. Will it help if I double the dosage of simvastatin for a couple of weeks??  The white disappeared quickly and we made short work of the rose.  Magnums of red opened, lovely comparison of vintages, the wine as honest, homey and welcoming as the Bonville family. The main course was off the hook kiddies, serious. Local pasture raised beef entrecote, grilled on a fire made from grape wood from the Marac vineyard. How SICK is that?!? It was beyond great.  I finished every bite of the huge slab on my plate. How can you not? Right? The wines went quite well with the food, the dark, cherry earthy flavors picking up nicely the smoky grapewood char on the beef. I could eat that stuff regularly.  All through dinner, I also realize we are being treated as family friends, allowed to glimpse a side of French culture we foreigners never get to see on our vacations. Family indeed runs deep in Bordeaux, I was so shocked, surprised, but above all honored and touched deeply by this charming family, who for a few hours opened up their family to include us, so that we could experience that warm, laughing joy of sitting around the dinner table, eating great food, drinking great wine and enjoying the simple, honest pleasure of each others' company. Wow. All I could think about on the way home was that point. The one driven home by this day. Family. It is as much the terroir of Bordaux, at least this corner of Bordeaux anyway, as the dirt and the rain.

Amazing. Cool. Off the hook. I'm blown away, honored and touched profoundly.   Back to Bordeaux town in the late hours of the evening; The inner man is most happy.  And so to bed.

Cheers,
Rob Moshein
Austin Wine Guy.

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Finally, a new classification of the bourgeoisie Cru is here.

28 September 2010

As announced today, other inside the bottle after three years of work:

Frederique de Lamothe, Director of c Alliance des Cru bourgeoisie du Medo told decanter.com today that she was happy at last announce results of three years work.

There were a lot of power, ' "she said."Three years ago we were more or less work in secrecy without the ability to know everything we do. "

The Alliance has made clear that registration of the annual quality assessment, classification of chateaux or terroirs like classification of 1855.

Had been mired in the original ???????? Cru classification bourgeoisie since this 2008 in 2003, when he was annulled after certain publishers 78 bitterly their exceptions.

Http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/500749/cru-bourgeois-new-listing-launched

New registration of vintage 2008, fine, it took three years to come together, mixed the bourgeoisie Allliance des Cru, under the Presidency of Thierry Gardinier of Chateau Phelan Segur, months of tastings.

Since the presidential Gardinier has resigned, he explained that as he was as cru bourgeois Phelan Segur as he felt it would be her him continue President – transfer the scepter and Frédéric de Luze of Chateau de Luze Paveil in Margaux.

For a new classification of wine experts Board fee – but with no selected wine chateau-' quality benchmark ' which is standard for all wines for the bourgeoisie 290 application Cru.

Benchmark – what consitutes a minimum level of acceptability for cru bourgeois-adjusted each year according to the quality of the vintage and the poor in vintage expected to get the number of labels.

"But we expect the relative stability of the percentage of estates with the registry," said the Director of the publication of the United States Claudine Nony.

Each cru bourgeois chateau apply be; all wines re-tasted from March to April every year for the news listing. wine barrel, they were with the percentage of re-tasted after bottling selected randomly ???????? ' of the shelf tests — meaning that the wine you are from retailers ' shelves.

Also be made clear that Nony not cuvees special list: after you apply, only to be eligible for the vineyards of chateau cru Bourgeois State.

New registration is selected all democratic, chateaux grouped without Cru Exceptionnnels or Superieurs bourgeoisie.

Indeed, a group of former Exceptionnnels bourgeoisie Cru, including Chateau Chasse Spleen, Chateau Les Ormes de Pez, Chateau de Pez, Chateau Potensac, Chateau Poujeaux and broke away from the Chateau Siran Alliance in May this year, with the intention of are forming their own group.

Steven Spurrier said the new flat structure becomes perfect sense having different hierarchies. only confuse people."

However, this is certainly a classification will remain in its current state for more than a few vintages.

Will probably vote of each Member to decide whether chateaux re-instate a hierarchy within the registry of any kind, she said to the bottle.

Full list of the new bourgeoisie Cru is here

Special greetings to members of our "must have" at her wine. Fleur la Mothe Ch, for making their wines are list! very deserving recognition as finding out when we visited them in June.

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